19:
Without a doubt, Nixi Killick was born with mermaid blood.
We met Nixi a few months ago at the Sportsgirl National Graduate Showcase media launch. She’s a finalist in this competition and will show at L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Week in March this year. High five!
Working from her boho Brunswick studio, Nixi delves into painting, illustration and forging otherworldly pieces that make our brains implode.
We had a sneaky chat with Melbourne’s design rockstar about design, the universe and mutant mermaids. Here’s the sneakypeek.
{ When did you realise you wanted to be a designer? }
I have a background in circus costume, performance and the arts so expressive culture is so engrained it’s just another way of breathing. I prefer the term ‘imagineer’ to designer. I feel that the art-fashion nexus has reached a critical crossover. Work can act as a dialogue speculating over the role of future-tive technology in creative escapism and question how the contemporary climate is embracing avenues for articulating a ‘maverick hybrid culture’.
In my practice I avoid creative compartmentalising and embrace expression in whatever form. Labelling is transient but ideas are paramount. I think for me the most important thing is to be creating new work that speaks across a variety of platforms. This idea is expanded in my 2012 thesis ‘Untitled: The evolutionary alchemy of creativity. Rise of the ‘hybrid maverick’.’
{ What influences your aesthetic? }
The frenetics of the universe untamed. I guess in some sense I’m searching for a hyper-culture. A disparate collision of adjacent possibles! Utilising hijacked technology in conjunction with artisanal hands as empowering catalysts. Colour texture and material recognition are pivotal in my aesthetic, especially in my most recent collection ‘Future-tive nature’ where a synergy with my painting explorations drew out a sort of bio-psychedelic vision.
{ If you could dress anyone, past or present, who would it be and how would you frock them up? }
Hmm… that’s a tough one. Right now im thinking probably the monumental bodacious babe Frida Kahlo. I would pop some serous pattern jamming in and a massive chunk of face bedazzling and body paint! Think Aztec Ganesh meets pixel gladiator meets mutant mermaid. Ha!
{ What kind of materials do you work with? Is it difficult to fashion them into wearable pieces? }
Im interested in material alternatives. In my last collection I experimented with mediums like latex, fibre optics, vacuum formed plastic and 3D prototyping, Utilising technologies like laser cutting and etching to create different surfaces and look into the idea of superlative structures. I think part of the appeal of ‘non-materials’ is the challenge of recontextualising materials and methodologies that exist in other paradigms to expand on my fashion practice.
{ Where would we find you on a lazy Sunday arvo? }
Lazy Sunday? They don’t exist! Ha! But I guess the equivalent would be in the depths on the night when I can find a kaleidoscope of clarity through my painting portal! Im a studio dweller and there is always magic to be made.
{ What do you have planned for the rest of 2013? }
2013 is already shaping up to be the busiest and most incredible year yet! Filled with new experiences and maintaining the momentum! Im showing my graduate collection at both the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival and iD New Zealand emerging designer awards in March, as well as installations at Penthouse mouse and a show of paintings. I’m also working on pieces for a new collection and freelance styling. This year I will get to India, this year I will expand horizons and most of all this year I have given myself to the dream.
28:
Jaime Lee Major is crazy talented. In fact, she’s so talented that we’re struggling to fathom that she only launched her label a few years ago.
Based in Perth, Jaime Lee creates demi-couture pieces fit for a fairy queen! There are so many things we love about her aesthetic – the heavy embellishment, the use of alien-esque iridescence, the feminne tailoring and her flower motifs – we’re obsessed!
After her recent success with being selected to create her own capsule collection for Sportsgirl, we decided to chat to the dramatic designer herself. Here’s the sneakypeek.
{ How would you describe the Jaime Lee girl? }
She loves colour and sparkles and wanted to be fairy when she was 5.
{ How did you feel when Sportsgirl asked you to design a capsule collection? }
Initially I was a bit nervous to try and transpose what I do into a commercial way. The price points are considerably different so that was my biggest concern. But I was extremely flattered and had a lot of fun designing for one of Australia’s most popular retailers!
{ How did you adapt your couture aesthetic for the high street? }
I wanted to keep it bright and colourful but still add a little bit of embellishment which is signature to all my Jaime Lee pieces.
{ You’ve adorned Kimbra with unbelievably adorable frocks for 2 years. Who else do you dream of dressing? }
I would love to keep dressing Kimbra on special projects where I can. Her musical style compliments my aesthetic so its a great fit. I’d also love to dress Beyonce and Gaga! Hopefully they will make another video as epic as ‘Telephone’, I’d love to do costumes for something like that!
{ Can you spill any juicy deets about what you’ve got planned for 2013? }
I have been busy working on a very special, new body of work which I will be releasing early July. I can’t wait to show everyone, its been a year-long project and I’ve taken things in a different direction to what I usually create.
03:
So by now you know that we here at Sneakypeek have a sweet tooth for luscious fashion illustration. And on today’s menu, we’re serving up some sartorial illustration by emerging LA illustrator Sunny Gu. Bon a petit!
Inspired by the latest in runway hautness, Sunny illustrates designer fashion with a ridiculous attention to detail. Popping with colour and texture, Sunny’s illustrated dresses make us wish we could print them off, cut them out, laminate them and wear them to tea.
Here’s the sneakypeek.
{ Your fashion illustrations feature so many amazing labels! Which has been your favourite to draw so far? }
This is so hard to pick! I have so many favorites!
The ones I enjoyed illustrating the most are collections from Alexander McQueen and Dolce & Gabbana. Their designs are always gorgeous, full of amazing details, fine textures and interesting colour choices.
{ How has your illustration style evolved? }
I always see my illustrations as a work in progress. I’m learning from every piece I paint. I always hope and strive to make the next illustration better and more mature than the ones I’ve illustrated before.
I think my illustration style is more mature. Now I have more control over the mediums I use; more confidence to create the look I imagined. But the core focus is still the same – my illustrations are always full of vibrant colors, rich details and delightful feelings!
{ What techniques do you use to create your illustrations? }
For most of my illustrations, I paint in watercolor. Occasionally I use graphite or acrylic paint to render some special textures.
05:
A little Marie Antoinette mixed with Disney princess-like perfection, Begitta is everything we could ever want in a fashion/millinery label.
Unlike so many other designers, Begitta Stolk understands the meaning of ‘cutting off the boring crusts and sprinkling your fairy-bread right to the edge’. Her designs are pure, untarnished whimsy. And that’s just the kind of deliciousness we love.
In 2008, Australian designer Begitta Stolk’s super-femme aesthetic won her a finalist position in the Australian National Retail Awards. She’s studied with the hautest of haute in Paris and London and has dressed countless belles-of-the-balls in completely couture, made-to-measure pieces.
We had a little gab with Begitta herself. Here’s the sneakypeek.
{ Your fairytale dresses are works of femme perfection! What inspired your latest collection? }
The Spring Summer 12/13 Collection “Ethereal Dreams” is inspired by dreams, purity and light. Clouds of silk sparkling with an effervescent glow. The iridescent colours in pale pastels which we have created by completely hand-dyeing all of the collection silks, satins and laces in light sorbets with adornments of Swarovski crystals, rhinestones, beads, pearls, hand-made silk flowers and full ruffles.
{ What is your design process? }
The Design process is my time of relish in. Where I can dream up the impossible and make it possible. I always start with an idea and bring it to life by delving into different aspects of that idea. The inspiration of Ethereal Dreams came from a book I saw whilst in a bookshop about 2-3 years ago called The Little Lost Unicorn. I bought it because it sparked something in my imagination that I loved. I have been subconsciously designing the collection in my head since!
Once I have the idea I research the different avenues of the idea- unicorns, fantasy, dreams, air, light, floating. Then dream up and sketch designs that make me feel these things whether by cut and style or by the adornment and detailing put on the piece.
{ What drew you to creating millinery? }
When I was in college creating my graduation collection I really wanted to accessorise and create pieces that complimented the outfits and brought something different to the table, to be able to create something that can be worn separately or with one of the creations. I started making crowns embellished with Swarovski crystals and pearls. Then, I decided that it was such a great creative outlet and studied a millinery course!
I also studied under Monsieur Jean-Pierre Tritz in Paris last year. He works with Jean-Paul Guiltier creating his head pieces for the haute couture collections. He is a master at his craft and so inspiring!
{ You recently studied haute couture design techniques in Paris. How do these techniques differ from general design processes? }
I found it absolutely astonishing to work with some of Paris’ finest couture hands. I really think that if Couture and Made-To-Measure is a career path you wish to take that you should learn these techniques “straight from the horses mouth” so to speak and that is exactly what took me to Paris. I got to experience living, breathing and loving Paris and all the inspiration and fashion it had to offer. These are experiences that have made me a better designer and have increased my skills in couture and it’s specialised techniques incredibly.
{ If you could dress any fairytale princess, who would it be and why? }
Cinderella! Sometimes it is like a Cinderella story when you go to a collection launch or a runway show and it is all glitz, glamour and gorgeous people. What this doesn’t show is all the hard work it takes to get there. It feels like a dream that you have produced something for someone to wear and feel beautiful. When you know how much work is put in to get there, every bead you thread, every seam you sew. But as Cinderella says, “a dream is a wish your heart makes’ and if you dream and work hard it will all come true.
17:
No, The Land of Fig is not some kind of Lilliput-like land of dancing fig people. Although it could be, if it wanted to. In fact, Sneakies, it’s a cheek-squeezingly whimsical label created by Nicole Figueroa.
We met Nicole at this year’s Sydney Finders Keepers. Her work is minimalist and meticulous, sweet and hand-sewn. She is also a self confessed fig pusher.
Meet The Land of Fig.
{ Where did the name The Land of Fig come from? It sounds like a delicious place! }
Ha! A colleague of mine actually asked another colleague why she thought I called my label ‘The Land of Fig‘. She mentioned “I don’t know exactly but maybe it’s because she loves figs and would always offer me figs…?”. I admit I am a fig pusher and I really do love figs and eat dried figs on a daily basis. However, the name actually came about several years ago.
When my best friend was living abroad, we used to write letters to each other and she’d always ask ‘…so, what’s been happening in the land of fig?’ (Fig being short for my surname, Figueroa). I took up the name instantly and started using it as a label for all my creative endeavours.
{ What inspires your creations? }
Daydreams and doodles! I’m a big daydreamer. So my daydreams inspire me on a daily basis. I usually find myself staring out of the window, allowing my mind to become absorbed in the wonder of what I see. I tend to doodle throughout the day, anything from basic shapes to repeated lines on a post-it note, and from this, an idea or a story for a piece usually evolves.
I like to walk around the streets looking at houses and gardens, where I find inspiration in the form, colour palettes and textures I see. My creations are also heavily influenced by foreign movies, especially the narratives and colour palettes in many French & Spanish movies.
{ Why did you decide to sell at this year’s Finders Keepers markets in Sydney? }
I wanted the experience of setting up a stall or ‘pop-up shop’ with my creations and I knew Finders Keepers was the right environment to do this in. I believe Finders Keepers was the first art/design market of its kind in Australia so I knew I had to be involved. I felt that FK was the right type of community for me to share my wares in because
I think it meets my aesthetic & target market. I wanted to put my art and creations out there for the first time and see how they would be received, and at the same time be part of such an inspiring, creative and fun environment. It was great to be surrounded by such talented artisans and in a way ‘exhibit’ our work together. Given that, I also hope to be able to sell new and exciting wares at various other markets in the future.
{ How exactly do you make your teeny tiny embroidered cards? }
Yes, it is very meticulous and labour-intensive work, which I have come to realise is my favourite form of creating! I like to immerse myself completely in each one, therefore I like to do a batch at the same time rather than just one at a time. The process of creating a card involves a few steps:
1. Hand-drawing a graphic motif that I think would be effective both as a stitched image and as a greeting card. I then scan this to the computer and position it on the front of my card template.
2. I then print the design onto A5-sized watercolour paper, then score and fold the card and punch out the rounded corners.
3. Then comes hand-stitching the motif colour by colour. I tend to go by instinct when creating a new card design and eventually establish some sort of a strategy for stitching them more efficiently later on.
4. After they are stitched, I place an envelope inside the card then tie with string and place in a cello sleeve.
{ We hear that your recent wedding celebrations were filled with handmade creations. How did you incorporate your cute craftiness into the event? }
Yes, I got married in September 2011 at Centennial Park, and it was actually from this event that the idea of releasing hand-embroidered cards evolved. For our celebrations, we chose to DIY everything except the catering. We involved our network of friends and family in the DIY & styling plans, including picking out our own flowers and arranging them in our collected jars, and a very talented friend of mine from Small Stall created our bouquets and buttonieres.
My sister organised the sweets table which included lots of yummy treats arranged onto various vintage platters she had collected especially for the wedding. I designed and illustrated our invitations. I did about 50+ invitations. On days when I found myself stitching for about 7hrs straight, my fingers would morph into some kind of weird alien formation!
For our bonbonnieres (which doubled up as name cards), we filled small paper bags with multicolour & multi-flavoured jellybeans, sewed them shut, and then I hand stitched the name labels on, which were also hand written and stitched with a little red kiss.
We also made many pom-poms of which a few were strung onto the tree at the ceremony and the remaining turned into garlands for the reception decor. I would really recommend DIY’ing most of your wedding, if possible, as it creates a more unique and personal occasion as well as bringing a community of your favourite people together!
12:
We’re huge fans of paper-goods. Like, huge.
In fact, you’ll probably find us creepily loitering around your local stationery section this weekend.
And so naturally, we were fabulously elated to sneakypeek our new paper-craze, Ragdoll Illustrations by Sally Shand. Illustrating from New Zealand, our creative chum illustrates petite ladies and gents with a wonderfully nostalgic aesthetic. We seriously adore the sweet simplicity of these playful cuties!
Here’s the sneakypeek.
{ How did Ragdoll Illustrations come about? }
I started Ragdoll while I was finishing up my studies in 2008. Ragdoll was started as just a bit of fun, making greeting cards and calendars for friends and family. Things took off pretty fast though and before I knew it I was flying up to Auckland for my first group show.
At the beginning of each year I try to set a goal for the next twelve months, some years it’s been to release a new collection or to focus on commissions and collaborative projects. In the past couple of years it’s been to focus on the label and the products it’s producing. I guess each year I set these goals, I get a feeling for where the label’s at and for where it should be heading next. Right now I feel it’s on the right track and I’m really looking forward to pushing it further!
{ Who are the little ragdoll folk in your illustrations? }
A lot of them used to be me! At the early stages of Ragdoll I was going through an obsession with photographs of my childhood – my parents had an amazing eye for capturing moments of my brothers and I, they were completely natural and un-posed. These days my illustrations are influenced still by nostalgia and the playful nature of childhood but I feel that I try to give them a little more structure and base them more on an idea than a moment.
{ What media do you use to create your work? }
At the moment I’m having a lot of fun working with crayons! I love the colour and different textures you can produce, as well as creating such a playful aesthetic which I feel really goes with my characters. A finished piece is usually drawn in parts, literally. From the face, to the arms, legs and of course, the outfit. Everything is then all pieced together and layered on the computer.
{ What is the illustration community like in New Zealand? }
I’ve found the illustrative community on its own in New Zealand to be very supportive. It’s very easy to find your niche here and somehow others doing similar work gravitate to you! New Zealand has been a fantastic place to nurture and grow Ragdoll, I guess a big factor for this is due to its size.
{ What are you working on at the moment? }
This year we’re working hard at breaking into a new department – homewares! With an emphasis on quality and keeping things local. I can’t say too much more at this point, except for- watch this space!
12:
Some designers get it so right it hurts to even contemplate their fabulosity. But the contemplatory pain is definitely worth it this time.
Designed by Melbourne lass Kelsey Menadue, Gwenadue is an edgy/girly gem in the Australian market rough. Featuring imported, digi-print fabrics and a sprinkling of pom poms, this label is an explosion of pretty. Worn by no less than Lana Del Rey on her recent Australian tour and featuring in Covet magazine, Gwenadue is the young label to watch.
Here’s the whats-what from the world of Gwenadue.
{ Your fabrics are so unique! Where do you find them? }
I am very inspired by fabric, it is normally what gives me ideas. I love bold, different and exciting prints. One of my favourite fabric stores is Tessuti Fabrics.
{ Who is the Gwenadue girl? }
The Gwenadue girl is always fun and playful. A little risky and not afraid to stand out, she is whimsical and loves to dress up. Colour and prints are always a heavy influence in her daily look. She takes every occasion as an excuse to create a new outfit. She mixes the old with the new and loves to add a touch of novelty.
{ Your lookbooks are impeccably styled! What inspires them? }
The lookbook was a really fun process. I started with making the grass wall background with pom poms, flowers and yo-yo’s. It was an explosion of colour and I spray painted all of the flowers. My stylist, Simone Vinski and I put all the outfits and accessories together and created the look we wanted. On the day of shooting I worked with a really talented team, the vibe was really great and it showed through the photos.
{ What do you have planned for the end of 2012? }
I am really excited for the Melbourne Spring Racing Carnival. Creating headpieces and girly, lady like designs is always something I have loved to do. This year my spring carnival range is currently stocked at a Melbourne Boutique, Lady Petrova. I can’t wait to see Gwenadue girls dressed up in during racing season.
11:
Swedish-born and super adorable, Sophia Edstrand is in a long-time love affair with Indian city Jaipur.
It’s a fantasy land of silks and precious stones that inspired Sophia to start her label,Sophia 203. Injected with the aesthetic fruits of her Indian adventures, Sophia 203 is a range of whimsically sweet accessories for women and children. The label incorporates the ancient Hindu art of embroidering miniature figures with her own contemporary aesthetic. Stocked in some of the world’s top boutiques, Sophia 203 has set our hearts (and wallets) aflutter.
We had a gab with Sophie herself about her handmade handicrafts as well as her new Melting Rainbows collection.
Here’s the sneakypeek.
{ How are your lovely pieces made? }
The pieces are embroidered using an ancient Indian technique. All the pieces are embroidered by the most skilled artisans in my atelier in Jaipur, India.
{ What made you want to design using embroidery? }
One of the reasons I started to do this is that I am fascinated by handicrafts in all forms, and since its a dying art I am very happy to be able to be a part of the conservation of it!
{ How did the Melting Rainbows collection come about? Is this collection different to your others? }
I am always inspired by the dreamy, the colorful and the magical. I think spring summer 2013 is very ‘me’- it contains all the pieces that I would like to wear this spring!
{ Your pieces are so intricate! How long does it take you to create them? }
My team of embroiderers are very good and precise! For a big belt, it takes about 100 hours, only for the embroidery. Its quite amazing to observe the process of how a piece gets done. Its like couture.
23:
We love spotlighting new illustrators. Mainly because we hope that once they become famous, world-dominatingly dictatorial and the leaders of an army of autocratically artistic robots, that they will spare us from an untimely end.
Luckily, Susie Julia’s general loveliness is an indicator that this will never happen.
Instead, we’re spotlighting this young illustrator/photographer because of her pure, liquid talent!
With an incredibly whimsical eye for design, Susie Julia creates collages and illustrations filled with printed dresses, swirling hairstyles and vintage photo cut-outs. She’s a student at Ontario College of Art and Design, but we’re betting that this lovely lady’s work is going to end up on the front of adorable magazines and in quirky fashion campaigns. You heard it hear first! (Now please, artistic robot army, spare us?).
{ How did you learn how to draw? }
I have been drawing since a very early age. Ever since I could remember, I have always had a pencil and paper in my hand. I would draw everything and anything! My family comes from a long line of artists and creators. My grandmother used to make commissioned portraits, my father attended a fine arts academy for interior design, and my mother designs handmade jewellery. Drawing runs in the family and it was only natural for me to become involved in it.
{ What artists and eras inspire your illustrations? }
I am in love with the art nouveau era. Artists like Alphonse Mucha greatly inspire me: the detail and craftsmanship in his drawings simply amaze me. The organic and flowery motifs are something that I am very drawn to. His rendering of the feminine form is beautiful.
I also admire Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, and Rene Magritte. From more recent illustrators, I am very attracted to Stina Persson’s illustrative style. She works with watercolour to create very simple yet striking fashion portraits. Cate Parr has a similar style which I also admire.
{ Tell us a bit about your illustration style }
It is fashion illustration that is quirky, colourful, very feminine, decorative and delicate. I like to draw the figure and portrait with a twist. So whether it is a fun pattern or texture, splash of colour, or bright pink hair, there is always something in my illustrations that stands out.
{ Your collages are so quirky! Where do you find the images that you use in them? }
I have only recently begun to work in the collage medium, but I have been fascinated by it for a while now. There are many collage artists that are featured regularly on artist websites such as booooooom.com that have inspired me greatly. I take my images from various old magazines that I have in my house, or that I find in thrift stores. All the collages are made digitally. I scan in the images and rework them in photoshop. For my latest collage series, I worked with the idea of juxtaposition and surreal landscape.
{ We’ve also heard that you’re a magnificent baker! Do baked goods feature in any of your illustrations? }
Thank you! Baking and the pastry arts are a current passion of mine that I would like to continue and possibly transform into a future career. I love baking cupcakes, and have made a few watercolour cupcake illustrations in the past. I plan on making more ‘dessert illustrations’, so keep checking back! Make sure to check out my baking blog, Pastel Macaron!
You can drink up Susie’s creative concoctions via her Etsy page.
12:
Emma Bazan named her illustration business ‘Bella & Bunny‘ after her cat, Bella and her Bunny, Midge. We wanted to sit down with all three of them, but unfortunately ran out of time to learn how to decipher the english meanings of meows and hops. So instead, we settled for the lady-artist herself, Emma Bazan. A Brooklyn-based illustrator/makeup artist with an eye for the delicate and feminine, Emma knows how to wield a paintbrush or two. She also has a thing for cute frocks and animals- think ‘fairytale-style princess slash zoo keeper woman’.
Here’s a sneakypeek into Bella & Bunny’s whimsical world.
{ How did you learn to paint? }
Well, I started painting at an early age. When I was in elementary school, I was in an art club that met weekly, this is where I was exposed to paint as a way of creating art. It came natural to me, and I enjoyed it very much. I experimented with different mediums throughout out my life. Art school helped me understand composition, while my painting techniques were developed on their own and has been influenced by other artist.
{ Describe your artistic style }
I like pretty dainty girly things; anything with pastel colors, lace, and floral prints. But, I also like things that have strong lines, graphic shapes and bold colors. I do my best to balance the two.
{ What techniques do you use to create your artworks? }
My work is hand drawn and painted with mostly watercolors, inks on watercolor paper. Sometimes I’ll refine lines with colored pencils, gouache or acrylic paints, depending on my mood. Most of my work is then digitally finished ,whether that is collaging pieces together to create a final piece or tweak colors. In the end, I like my work to look crisp and clean.
{ You feature a number of cute creatures in your prints. What is it about nature that inspires you? }
I always had a great appreciation and interest in nature. I can watch any show about nature for hours, or read about birds, and insects, and never lose interest. I’m kind of nerdy that way. I also think nature is a good source of information for an artist. There is lots of colour combinations, textures and shapes provided everywhere. I recently went to the beach and found it interesting how the waves would leave a pattern on the sand it just crossed over. It looked like a knitted sweater. Things like that fascinate me.
{ If you could borrow the hands of a famous artist, who would it be? }
Ah, there are so many artists- it’s so hard to choose! But right now if I had to choose, it would be Rene Gruau. Not that my work is heavy on the fashion illustration side, but I really admire his use of elegant silhouette, graphic lines and bold colours. He really had an eye for great composition.
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